Popular Posts ProCharged 7.3L Ford Godzilla Engine Alex Taylor's Twin-Turbo 512 cid Big Block Chevy Engine 582 cid Big Block Chevy Engine Compound Turbo 5.9L Cummins-Swapped Ford F100 Single Turbo 444 cid 7.3L Powerstroke Engine Connect with us advertise with us

ProCharged 7.3L Ford Godzilla Engine

Alex Taylor's Twin-Turbo 512 cid Big Block Chevy Engine

582 cid Big Block Chevy Engine

Compound Turbo 5.9L Cummins-Swapped Ford F100

Single Turbo 444 cid 7.3L Powerstroke Engine

Popular Posts ProCharged 7.3L Ford Godzilla Engine Alex Taylor's Twin-Turbo 512 cid Big Block Chevy Engine 582 cid Big Block Chevy Engine Compound Turbo 5.9L Cummins-Swapped Ford F100 Single Turbo 444 cid 7.3L Powerstroke Engine Connect with us advertise with us

ProCharged 7.3L Ford Godzilla Engine

Alex Taylor's Twin-Turbo 512 cid Big Block Chevy Engine

582 cid Big Block Chevy Engine

Compound Turbo 5.9L Cummins-Swapped Ford F100

Single Turbo 444 cid 7.3L Powerstroke Engine

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Add Your Listing Edit Your Listing By Category Engine Components A/N Fittings/AdaptorsAir Induction SystemsBatteriesBearings (camshaft)Bearings (engine sleeve type)Bearings (main rear main)Bearings (Rod)Belt Tensioner/IdlersBrass FittingsBushingsCam CapsCamshaft Belt DrivesCamshaft KitsCamshaft SealsCamshaft Thrust Plate and PartsCamshaftsCarburetorsChain KitsClampsComplete EnginesConnecting RodsConnecting Rods Nuts BoltsCrankshaft ConversionsCrankshaft KitsCrankshaft Oil SlingersCrankshaft Pulley SleevesCrankshaft Repair SleevesCrankshaft SealsCrankshaftsCylinder Head ComponentsCylinder Heads New: Aluminum BareCylinder Heads New: Aluminum CompleteCylinder Heads New: Cast Iron BareCylinder Heads New: Cast Iron CompleteCylinder Heads Reman: Aluminum BareCylinder Heads Reman: Aluminum CompleteCylinder Heads Reman: Cast Iron BareCylinder Heads Reman: Cast Iron CompleteCylinder Liners (sleeves)Diesel InjectorsDipstick Adapters (Chevy Ford)Dowel PinsEFI ComponentsEngine BlocksEngine Blocks - RemanufacturedEngine KitsEngine Management Systems/ECUsEngine MountsExhaust ComponentsExhaust Components: Complete SystemsExhaust Components: Custom ExhaustsExhaust Components: Leak DetectionExhaust Components: ManifoldsExhaust Components: Tube NotchingExhaust Components: Tube SwagingExhaust Components: Tube/Frame Bending MachinesFilters - AirFilters - FuelFilters - OilFlywheel (ring) GearsFlywheel AssembliesFuel Injection - ElectronicFuel Injection - MechanicalFuel PumpsFuel System ComponentsGasket CementGasketsGear DrivesGovernorsHarmonic Balancer Repair SleevesHarmonic Balancers/DampersHead Bolts/StudsHex ShaftsHydraulic Lash AdjustersIgnition ComponentsInjector TubesInjectors - DieselInjectors - Gasoline DirectInjectors - IndirectIntake ManifoldsIPR ValvesKeysLockwashersMain Caps (4-bolt)Manifold StudsNitrous Oxide Systems, ComponentsNitrous Valves and PlatesNuts and BoltsOil CoolersOil Filter AdaptersOil PansOil Pressure SpringsOil Pump KitsOil Pump ScreensOil Pump ShaftsOil Pump Timing CoversOil PumpsOiling Systems; Dry SumpOverhead Camshaft Repair SleevesPiston Pin BushingsPiston Pin Lock RingsPiston PinsPiston RingsPistonsPlugs - ExpansionPlugs - MagneticPlugs - Oil DrainPlugs - StandardPush RodsRadiator/Oil FansRering KitsRestoration Engine PartsRocker Arm Rebuilding ComponentsRocker Assemblies and KitsRocker Stud GirdlesSealsSerpentine BeltsShimsShort BlocksSpark PlugsSpringsSuperchargers, componentsSwitchesTappetsThread RepairThrust WashersTiming Belt/Chain TensionerTiming Belts/ChainsTiming Chains, Gears, SprocketsTiming ComponentsTiming CoversTransmission AdaptorsTurbochargers, componentsValve CoversValve Guide LinersValve GuidesValve KeysValve Lifter BallsValve LiftersValve Locks and SealsValve Seat InsertsValve Spring InsertsValve Spring RetainersValve SpringsValve Stem Oil SealsValve Train PartsValvesWater PumpsWater Tubes Engine Equipment & Preparation Adhesive DispensingAir Flow BenchesAir Handling SystemsBalance Shaft Elimination KitBalance Shaft Line Boring EquipmentBalancing AccessoriesBalancing EquipmentBelt SanderBench GrinderBlock Pressure Testing EquipmentBoring Bar InsertsBoring Bar Tool BitsBoring Machines/Connecting RodBoring Machines/CylinderBoring Machines/LineBoring Stand (For Portable Boring Machines)Brass FittingsBroachBushing Bearing & Seal Driver SetsCAD/CAM SoftwareCam Bearing Installation ToolCamshaft Degree Wheel (Digital)Camshaft GrindersCap & Rod GrinderCBN Inserts - NewCBN Inserts - ResurfacedCleaning Specialized EngineCNC Machining CentersCNC Retrofit KitsCompressed Air EquipmentConnecting Rod GaugesCoolant Filter MachinesCore Shift TesterCrack Repair EquipmentCranesCrankshaft Balance WeightsCrankshaft FurnaceCrankshaft GrindersCrankshaft Journal Weld KitsCrankshaft PolisherCrankshaft Polishing BeltsCrankshaft StraightenerCylinder Head Adapter PlatesCylinder Head Assembly/Disassembly Equip.Cylinder Head Chamfering ToolCylinder Head GaugeCylinder Head HoldersCylinder Head PolishingCylinder Head PortingCylinder Head Pressure TesterCylinder Head StraighteningCylinder Hone StopsCylinder Porting ToolsCylinder Sleeve PressDemagnetizersDiamond DressersDiesel Injector Hole Repair ToolsDiesel Injector Sleeve Installation ToolDowel PullersDye Penetrant InspectionDynamometersEngine Adaptor PlatesEngine Cycle AnalyzerExhaust Leak DetectionFeeler GaugesFlexible Honing Tools/Brush HonesFlywheel GrinderFuel Injection Cleaning ServicesGrinder Head StraighteningGrinding CoolantsGrinding WheelsHardness TestersHead/Block Crack Repair KitsHead/Block Resurfacing (Belt/Sanders)Head/Block Resurfacing (Milling)Heat Tabs Temperature SticksHolding FixturesHone Stop FixtureHoning JigsHoning Machines Wrist PinHoning Machines/CylinderHoning Machines/LineHoning Machines/RodHoning Machines/Valve GuideHoning PlatesHoning StonesIgnition System TestersIn-Process Gauges(Cam and Crank Grinders)Inspection GaugesLeak Down TesterLeveling DeviceMagnetic Particle Inspection Crack DetectionMicropolishing EquipmentOHC Line Boring ToolsOil Leak DetectionPCD Inserts - NewPin Fitting & Rod Reconditioning/TestingPin PressPin RemovalPiston KnurlerPiston Ring CompressorsPre-Cup Machining ToolsPush Rod Guide PlatesReplacement Chuck for Valve FacersRocker Arm GrinderRod AlignmentRod Bolt ProtectorsRod FurnaceRod VisesRun-In StandsStandsStud PullersTapsTest EquipmentThickness GaugeThread GaugesThread Repair & Replacement KitTorque PlatesUltrasonic Test EquipmentVacuum TesterValve Grinding BenchValve Guide & Seat Driver SetValve Guide & Seat MachineValve Guide Boring FixtureValve Guide HoneValve Guide KnurlingValve Guide PilotValve Guide ReamerValve Guide ToolValve Refacer (Cutter)Valve Refacer (Grinder)Valve Refacer WheelsValve Seat CuttersValve Seat InserterValve Seat PullersValve Seat ResurfacerValve Seat Runout GaugeValve Seat Tool GrinderValve Seat WheelsValve Spring CompressorValve Spring TestersValve Stem GrinderValve Stem Height MeasuringValve Stem PolisherWater Tube PullerWet Flow Bench Conversions Supplies & Service Chemicals & SolventsCore Cleaning & ProcessingCranes & HoistsHand ToolsLubricantsPressesServicesShippingStorage Racks & BenchesWelding

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Whether you’re a professional engine builder, machinist or manufacturer, or an automotive enthusiast who likes engines, racing and fast vehicles, Engine Builder offers content aimed at you. Our print magazine offers in-depth tech features on everything you need to know about engine building and its different markets, while our newsletter options keep you up-to-date on the latest news and products, tech info and personalities in the industry. But, you only get all of that if you subscribe. Subscribe now to receive Engine Builder magazine in print and/or digital each month, and our Engine Builder newsletter, Engine of the Week newsletter or Diesel of the Week newsletter directly in your inbox each week. You’ll be covered in horsepower in no time!

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When dealing with high-performance engines, it’s imperative to know a thing or two about crack detection!

Thanks to the ever-increasing horsepower, torque and loads today’s engines are put under, there are going to be times where critical components such as blocks and cylinder heads will crack due to the stress. But don’t fret! There are a number of ways to check for those cracks and repair them.

We’ve talked a lot about crack detection over the years – everything from wet and dry magnetic particle inspection to dye penetrant crack detection to vacuum testing. Another avenue is pressure testing. This method is often used along with one of those listed above as a final check that all of the cracks or pinholes have been repaired. There are two ways to perform pressure testing – wet or dry. The good news is the procedures are essentially the same regardless of which method you choose.

First of all, the head being tested needs to be completely clean. You will attach a special block-off plate to the head to seal off the water passages, then pump pressurized air into the head through an air line inserted into a water port. Some sources will tell you to use about 60 psi, but in my experience, 20-25 psi is adequate. Some heads have core plugs pressed into them and these will blow out at 60 psi. It’s not only an inconvenience, it’s a safety hazard.

Here’s where the methods differ. With the wet method, you’ll lower the head into a water tank until it’s completely submerged. If you have holes or cracks, the escaping air bubbles will show you where. The dry method is similar. Instead of taking the head to the water, you’re bringing the water to the head. Once the head is pressurized, you’ll spray it with a soapy solution (bubble fluid or a little dish soap in water). If there are cracks or holes, the solution will bubble up and you’ll know where you need to repair.

Pressure testing is one of the easiest of the crack detection methods available. But a major drawback is that pressure testing can’t identify all cracks. Surface cracks that don’t connect to a water passage won’t show any leakage so you could miss those if you just use pressure testing.

For that reason, chemical crack detection can come in handy. As you all know, there are no magnets for aluminum. I’m sure someday we will develop it, but for now chemical crack detection is one avenue you can take to find cracks in your aluminum engine parts. 

There are a couple of ways Goodson can help engine builders with chemical crack detection. First is our AC kit, which has been in our product line for years. It uses a proven chemical process and it has three parts to get it done. AC-1 is a cleaner and is what you use to clean the work piece. AC-2 is a penetrant and gets sprayed on the work piece. Lastly, AC-3 is the developer itself. Just like developing film, when we spray this on after the cleaner and the penetrant, it will develop where the crack or cracks are.

That AC-3 spray will actually change the color of the silver aluminum into a reddish/orange color, which can be seen by the eye quite quickly. This is an alternative method to checking surface cracks on aluminum. 

Of course, we’ve all got pressure testers in our shops, and I’m not trying to take away from the pressure testers. You’ve got to have a pressure tester because it’ll check all the water passages and oil galleys, where with the chemical check you can only check surfaces that you can actually spray to. And, we’re subjected to the ability of our eyeballs to see that chemical reaction and know where those cracks are and to take either the appropriate measures to repair that work piece or change it out for a core with better integrity.

To help in the visual realization of the chemical process against these work pieces, Goodson also decided to make a GLO kit, which like the AC kit, has a cleaner, a penetrant and a developer spray. However, the beauty of the GLO material is it reacts to UV light. When you shine a UV light over your components, any crack or cracks will literally pop off of the aluminum surface for easy detection. Goodson sells a Maxion DFL 364 UV light to accompany the GLO kit chemicals.

As mentioned, we’ve talked about how to find cracks in cylinder heads and blocks, but now it’s time to discuss repairing the cracks you’ve found. Let’s start by saying that not every crack you find needs to be repaired. If the crack isn’t located in an oil passage, bolt hole or other seal surface you don’t need to fix it completely. You do, however, need to stop the crack from growing. If you don’t, odds are you’ll be fixing it in the future. 

To stop the crack from growing you need to do what’s called “stop drilling.” This means you drill a tiny hole – about 1/8˝ diameter – just past the ends of the crack. This hole will relieve the stresses placed on the metal and keep the crack from expanding.

As with most operations in the machine shop, there are multiple methods you can use. Some methods work better on certain materials (cast iron vs. aluminum, for example) and some are just pure personal preference. The most common methods for crack repair used in automotive shops are tapping and plugging, welding, sealants, and inserting sleeves. For now, we’re just going to cover crack repair plugs.

The most common system available for tapping and plugging cracks is Irontite. As the name implies, this method of crack repair requires taps and plugs. You will also need correctly sized drills and tapered reamers.

The first type of application we’ll talk about is installing tapered plugs to repair a crack in the area of a casting that is subject to high pressure and/or temperatures. A perfect example of this is a crack in the valve seat area of the head. To repair this type of crack you’ll install the plugs at an angle to the casting surface, not perpendicular. You will also be overlapping the plugs.

1. Drill a plug hole at least 1/8˝ past the visible ends of the crack. This is to stop the crack from growing as you put pressure on the casting by installing plugs. Be sure to use compressed air to clean out the holes, every step of the way.

2. After drilling, use a tapered reamer in the hole to make tapping easier and reduce tap breakage. This is particularly important where the material you’re drilling through is thick.

3. Next tap the hole at one end of the crack. Be careful not to tap too deeply. You may run into another wall within the casting or the plug might seat too deeply before it is tight. One rule of thumb is to count the number of threads in the hole and tap so that the plug goes in the same number turns. For example, you have six threads, so you turn the plug six times.

4. Dip the end of the threaded plug with sealer such as Ceramic Motor Seal or Fluid Weld and tighten it into the tapped hole.

5. Saw off the excess plug material. For best results, be sure to cut at least half-way through the plug before snapping off the remaining material. This should keep the plugs from snapping off below the surface.

6. Peen the surface of the plug and the surrounding area.

7. Be sure to locate the next plug so that it overlaps the one you just installed. You will continue in this fashion until the entire crack has been repaired.

The peening process is extremely important. It helps close the threads at the surface of the casting. When peening, always peen away from the center of the plug. In the peening process, the position control of the air hammer is most important. It provides the necessary control over the direction of the ends of the peening tools.

A similar, but slightly different application is used when repairing cracks in easily accessible areas of the casting that aren’t subject to high pressure or temperature and the metal is relatively thin.

After the crack is outlined, drill and tap holes along the line of the crack about 1/4˝ to 1/2˝ apart. Where the material is less than 1/4˝ thick, it is not necessary to ream before tapping.

2. Torque the plugs in concurrently so that none of them will be loosened as other plugs are torqued in. Be sure to dip each of the plugs into sealer.

3. Cut the plugs off about 1/16˝ above the surface and peen them. Always peen from the center of the plug toward the thread in the plug.

4. Peen the crack itself, peening inwardly toward the center of the crack.

You can also drill and tap the holes in a lacing fashion on opposite sides of the crack. You’ll torque the plugs in at the same time and then cut them off. Peen the plugs and the crack in the same manner as above. This process, in addition to closing the crack with additional metal and with peening the crack, develops a resistant elasticity in the metal, which helps keep the crack closed.

Some final tips, tricks and cautions are to be sure to use the proper amount of downward pressure with the tapered tap. You’ll also want to use a good tapping fluid. Use the same material for the plugs as the head is made of. For example, if you’re repairing a cast iron head, you’ll use iron plugs. You’ll also need to be sure that you have actually repaired the entire crack by pressure or vacuum testing.

These are just a few methods of crack detection and repair, but they could save you and your engine from further damage. EB

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